Green Fly

Is it me, or is it a REALLY good year for Greenfly? They're everywhere!!!! Luckily, here at Fron Goch we have many ways to deal with these pesky sap-suckers!:) We have a great range of pesticides, standard and organic, and there's always somebody around that can give you advice on how to use them effectively, and safely. You can always let nature give you a hand by attracting beneficial insects into the garden, and here's a handy link to explain how.
http://www.rhs.org.uk/Gardening/Sustainable-gardening/Plants-for-pollinators

Fungal Disease (in the garden)

Many of us have, or are about to, plant out brassica in the vegetable garden, and with that is concern about Clubroot. Clubroot is a fungal disease, that lives in the soil. It causes swollen and distorted root growth, and the upper part of the pant can appear stunted, be prone to wilting and generally look unhealthy. This disease can survive in the soil for 20(!) years.So what can we do to control or prevent this disease? Well, there is NO chemical treatment available to gardeners. But, liming the soil well, and improving drainage, by adding loads of organic matter, or building raised beds we give our little brassica plants the advantage, (as the fungus thrives in damp acidic soil). If sowing your own seeds, use fresh compost, not soil from the garden. When buying plants from us you can be assured that they are Clubroot free. If you already have Clubroot on your plot, that doesn't mean you have to stop crowing brassica, potting your plants on into fresh compost, so that they are well established before you plant them out gives them a head start . Try to prevent contaminating other beds, by transferring infected soil on garden tools, or transplants etc. Or you could try the old trick of putting a chunk of Rhubarb in the planting hole when planting, some say it works, others say no, but we gardeners will give anything a go wont we!. There are loads of resistant varieties now available, and more being developed every year.PLANTS AFFECTED BY CLUBROOT: All brassica, cabbages, cauliflower, kale, sprouts, radishes, kohlrabi, turnips, sweedes, also be aware that, Wallflowers, Aubretia, Stocks, and weeds such as Sheperds Purse, are all part of the brassica family, and its best not to transfer them to your plot from a garden where you know Clubroot is a problem.

How to Prepare Seed Potatoes

With many thanks from Westland, who supply us with fantastic composts & fertalisers a hand guide to preparing seed potatoes.

How to Prepare Your Seed Potatoes
For best results, allow seed potatoes to ‘chit’ (sprout) before planting.

What is Chitting?
Chitting is a simple process, where seed potatoes are encouraged to sprout before planting.

Why chit?
Chitting gives your seed potatoes stronger sprouts and is a vital factor in producing a successful crop. Having good sprouts before planting can help to speed up the growing process.

How to chit your seed potatoes.
During February and March place the seed potatoes in a shallow tray (egg boxes are ideal) with any shoots facing upwards.
Position the tray in the light, protect from frost and extreme heat. This chitting process takes roughly six weeks to allow sprouts to grow 1.5-2.5cm (0.5-1in) long. Once the seed potatoes have reached this point, you are ready to plant them out, either in the ground or in a growing bag.

How to Plant Your Seed Potatoes
Seed potatoes will grow well in the ground or in a growing bag. Bags are ideal if you are limited for space.

 

Planting Seed Potatoes in the Ground

 

Prepare & Plant

Choose a sunny spot (avoid frost pockets) and dig to break down the soil, removing any clods. Dig a trench in the soil 15cm (6in) deep by 15cm (6in) wide before laying out the seed potatoes with the shoots or rose end facing upwards. Position the seed potatoes 25-30cm (10-12in) apart allowing 60cm (24in) between each row and cover over with the excess soil. First shoots should appear within a few weeks.

 

Care

Once the first shoots begin to show cover with a new layer of soil to protect the crop. Once shoots are 5cm (2in) tall, cover the shoots with more soil to block out any light; this process is called ‘earthing up’. Repeat this process twice. Water the soil around the plants especially once foliage has formed.

 

Planting Seed Potatoes in a Growing Bag

 

Prepare & Plant

Fill a potato growing bag with 15cm (6in) of compost. Position three to four chitted seed potatoes evenly on top of the compost, with sprouts facing upwards. Cover potatoes with a further 10-15cm (4-6in) of compost and ensure compost is well watered. First shoots should appear within a few weeks.

Care

Water the potato plant regularly to keep compost moist, taking care not to saturate the compost. As the seed potatoes start to shoot, cover with a new layer of compost 10cm (4in) deep and repeat this process twice until 5cm (2in) from the top of the bag. Water well, especially once foliage has formed, watering onto the compost rather than the foliage.

 

How to Harvest Your Potatoes

When the potato plant starts to flower (approximately 12 weeks after planting), it is usually a sign that your potatoes are ready for harvesting. The longer you leave your potatoes the larger they will be and the bigger the yield. To harvest from the ground carefully dig up from the side using a garden fork to avoid bruising your crop.
From a growing bag,carefully remove the whole potato plant. Wash the potatoes ready for use. Store potatoes in a cool, dark, frost-free place.

Creating a Homemade Christmas Wreath

Christmas at Fron Goch

Care for your tree

Caring for your Real Christmas Tree

With our real Christmas trees arriving in Fron Goch from the 1st December we though it would be helpful to provide some hints and tips on how to maintain & get the most out of your tree this Christmas.  

Of course our experts are always on hand to give you some guidance and help should you need it.

Caring for your Christmas Tree

When buying a Christmas tree it is always best to choose a locally sourced and grown tree, or one that has at least been grown in the UK rather than abroad. 

When displaying trees indoors, avoid placing them too close to a fire or radiator, as this will cause excessive moisture loss and needle drop.

Cut Trees

• When you get the tree home, saw 2.5cm (1in) off the bottom with a pruning saw
• Place in a stand with a well of water in the base
• Check daily and top up the water when the level drops
• With care, cut trees should last about four weeks

Trees in Pots

• To reduce stress and damage to living trees, display them in a cool room
• Bring trees indoors as late as possible – the weekend before Christmas is ideal
• Do not keep living trees in the house any longer than 12 days, but be guided by the tree. If it looks unhappy, put it back outside

Either plant the tree out in the garden after Christmas, or (if you want to bring it indoors again next year) grow it on in a container, moving it into a bigger pot annually until you reach the maximum size that can be moved comfortably (about 45cm (18in) diameter and depth). Feel free to pop over and ask our experts, for some advice on this.

Pruning & Training

Christmas trees need very little training when grown outdoors. Aim to maintain an attractive shape, removing any shoots that spoil the silhouette or any strong upright branches that compete with the leading stem. Prune away any dead, diseased or dying branches.

Christmas trees planted in pots will be limited in their size by the constraints of the pot. But if planted out in the garden, Christmas trees can get very large, reaching a height of about 15-20m (50-65ft) in twenty years, and possible eventual heights of about 40m (130ft). The smallest growing Christmas trees are probably Fraser firs, which reach about 7m (23ft) after twenty years, attaining an eventual height of about 20m (65ft), and Korean firs, which reach 4m (13ft) in twenty years and an eventual height of 10m (33ft).

Christmas trees are generally problem-free indoors, but will lose their needles quickly if placed too close to a source of heat, or if water dries up in the well of the stand.

Christmas trees grown on in pots may only live for a few years, as they are not naturally suited to ongoing pot cultivation.

Pop in and see us any time if you would like some advise or help with your tree!